Objective
My tri-bike and training setup had to eventually have the following features:
- tri-specific base bike (not a road bike conversion)
- power meter & computer
- race wheels
- stationary trainer
- comfortable seat
- plenty of on-bike storage for nutrition and fluids
- tires
The Bike
I was fortunate to find the last Cervelo P1 at my LBS and it was a 54cm Medium frame which fit me perfect. It was on clearance and I snagged it for $1300+tax. The frame is aluminum with carbon forks and weighs not much less that the base Cervelo carbon bike, the P2 with much of the same equipment (mostly Ultegra parts, Dura-Ace shifters, Vision aero bars).
I see little point being a weight-weenie on a tri bike, especially in Texas where roads are flat or gently undulating. Plus, when I started training I was well over 230lbs so there was zero value in lightweight bike parts when I had so much bodyweight to lose. Having lost around 40lbs from where I began, my bike effectively weighs nothing.
Power Meter
Many coaches promote the advantages of training with power. But power meters are eye-wateringly expensive. CycleOps Powertap is probably the most cost-effective. I patiently watched Craigslist for months and eventually found a wired PowerTap fitted into a Stan's No Tubes Alpha 340 rim, that had been built up at my LBS that a guy was upgrading from. $270. However, the little yellow computer gave up very quickly. I found a replacement at Wheelbuilder.com for $100 but unfortunately the wired computers they stock don't support the heart-rate strap that the original one did. Never mind, I'll live without it.
I can't stress how much the power meter has helped me train and race. I know exactly how I'm improving (regular testing) and exactly how hard I'm going in races. While I'm only a mid-pack triathlete, my bike splits are regularly best in AG and top 10 overall.
Race Wheels
You can spend a small fortune on race wheels. But can you get close by spending a lot less? Yes you can.
Firstly, get a set of rear wheel-covers from wheelbuilder.com. All the advantages of a disc wheel for about $100. I leave mine on all the time and sealed it to the rim with black electrical tape. I had an inner-tube blowout and blast an eight inch shard of plastic off the wheel cover but electrical tape fixed that. They won't last forever but they've done a whole season in-tact.
For the front wheel I've been searching for a HED 3 tri-spoke wheel for around $400. Used carbon wheels is a minefield (according to my bike tech) so I was really looking for something for sale local that I could get some second hand assistance with, rather than trusting ebay. In the end I opted for a new Profile Design Altair 80 that was on clearance from a cycle store in the UK for $414, with free international shipping! Wow. Less than used ones are selling for on ebay! Be patient. Seek out a bargain.
Stationary Trainer
CycleOps Mag Trainer. Paid full price. Worth every penny. No need for the more expensive ones with handlebar mounted adjustment. Also, get the rubber mat and bike thong, indoor training is a sweaty business. Sufferfest make excellent tortuous training videos. Oh, and get a rear indoor trainer specific tire.
Seat
I tried getting used to the hard seat that came with my bike but eventually gave a Profile Design cushioned tri-specific seat a try and haven't looked back. Got it on clearance too. The right seat is important especially as you up the time and distance in the saddle.
On-Bike Storage
Profile Design Aerodrink system. You can fill it up from water bottles and you can drink whenever you need to. Torpedo mounted bottles might be more aero but I love not having to move to drink.
XLAB Rocket Pocket bag - tucks behind my stem, improves aerodynamics, holds plenty of gels, an inhaler, tire levers and it's insulated to keep stuff cool.
Two-bottle behind-the-seat bottle holder. Can't remember the brand but it's made of metal so not lightweight. However, I heard carbon ones have a habit of launching bottles like bottle rockets when you hit bumps in the road. Even this one took some experience to avoid problems. I eventually opted for left- and right-handed Specialized cages and only Specialized water bottles that fit very firmly into the cages. The holder also has a small toolbag that holds a (lightweight) tube, the 90 degree pump adapter to inflate the rear tire with the wheelcover on, and a small multi-tool.
SaltStick dispenser. Tucks neatly into my cockpit. These are design to slot into the end of your aero bars but my Vision bars don't have removable end-caps so it neatly velcros to the aero bar instead (fasteners and mount come with the dispenser). Holds up to five saltstick capsules. Good for about four hours of riding for me. When I move up to Ironman distance, I'll be adding a second one.
Tires
Bike came with Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick tires, which were OK but I've since switched to the Continental Attack/Force pairing (22mm front, 24mm rear) which I adore. Will probably switch to Gatorskins for the winter.
Further additions
I'll be adding rear cassette to my original rear wheel (Shimano R500) and putting the training tire on it, so I have a whole rear wheel for indoor training rather than having to change tires all the time. Currently looking for a bargain. It means my indoor training will not be done with the power meter but I find power pointless for indoor training. I'll also get a set of front brake pad holders to make changing between carbon and non-carbon pads quicker and easier. Bar tape I replace every year. New tape always makes the bike feel like new.
Oh yes, and when funds allow, I'll be adding a road bike to the stable, for group rides.
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